“Now more than ever, the brand will follow its own rhythm, legitimizing the value of time and connecting globally with people, approaching them in their own spaces and lives. With this strategy, Saint Laurent will not present its collections in any of the 2020 appointments already established.”
This was the decision taken a few months ago by the fashion masion Saint Laurent. The complicated year in which we live, is calling for reflection several high fashion brands, an industry that had already been in difficulty for some time.
Fashion is rethinking and reinventing itself, taking the unexpected failure of this year as an opportunity to unite all the points of the speech started earlier. And now, shaking off the dust, it begins to outline its new path in the name of fresher and more current market needs.
Seasonality, an obsolete scheme
A few months ago also Giorgio Armani expressed himself to reiterate what he had already been saying for years. Fashion can no longer be so fast, you have to go back to the times when the clothes were created to last. This concept of recovery of lifestyles of the past, was accompanied by a completely innovative thought: seasonal collections are no longer needed.
From a global market perspective, where customers buy from every corner of the world, what is the point of proposing fashion shows with autumn-winter and spring-summer collections?
The debate is open and each designer is elaborating his own personal response. Saint Laurent will not participate, for example, in the canonical annual fashion shows, but it will take the time and the breath to organize when it thinks is ppropriate to do so. Presumably choosing to follow a slower time: a human time.
Fashion shows, are they still useful?
A further step forward raises the question of whether, in the digital age, there is still the need to attend to a fashion show. It’s true, they are a huge use of time and money and certainly two annual fashion shows no longer make sense.
The market, now globalized, requires that the distinctions based on time and space are no longer made. It requires reasoning in terms of mutual approximation and bond. Only in this way will a be possible a new haute couture. For this reason, several designers are modifying their organization models, now obsolete, to move to the creation of a single annual fashion show. A fashion show that will contain winter and summer dresses together.
The digital age in fashion
- The Digital Fashion Week took place in Milan in July, the first completely digital fashion week.
- On the web, Net-a-Porter, a digital platform that collects big brands allowing people to safely purchase the most sought-after clothes, has entered the scene.
- Chanel, after canceling its fashion show, decided to parade digitally.
In the light of this information, two considerations can be made. The first concerns the indispensable nature of digital, a reality that allows remote communication. Second: surely fashion, now that it has been forced to live by alternative means, will treasure the novelties brought and take a new path. But it’s not so simple: how can you convey the feeling you feel by holding the fabric of a dress in your hands, through digital? This will be the great challenge of the future, which for the moment gives way to the hybrid solution of truth, presence, combined with digital.